Feb 27, 2015

Bruyère

Bruyère



        I’m wearing a top hat to distract you from the badly matching lines and the moiré!


Bruyere Shirt


        This is the Deer&Doe Bruyère Shirt in a mishmash of sizes and bearing so many alterations that the original pattern got buried so deep it would take a shovel to dig it out. Why? Because the way my body is built is soooooo far away from the Deer&Doe “standard”. This pattern is not a generic one and when I say generic I mean based on some generic block like the ones straight out of the pattern cutting books. This pattern has been fitted to a specific body type and I think this proves its “originality” - and lately has been some talk about the originality of independent patterns.


Bruyere Shirt Bruyere Shirt


        Still… I love the design of the Bruyère so much that I went ahead and ploughed my way through a bust adjustment from the original D cup to my almost B cup (through both bust darts). I lengthened a lot the bodice - when Eléonore, the designer, says 168cm height it IS 168cm height. As a base size I cut the a 36. Although I cut the neckline at a 34 I had to reduce it further by 1cm - and it’s still not enough. I like to be able to close my shirts to the last button if I feel like.


Deer Doe Bruyere Shirt


        I added ca. 1cm to the shoulder length also and about 1.5 cm to the sleeve cap. Because I have no intention of wearing this shirt to do manual labour or run track I reduced the ease at the back a lot and I mean a lot. The same with the bicep girth and I also raised the armhole. Yeah I know I had to do quite a bit but this is how much I love the design.


Deer Doe Bruyere Shirt


        The fabric is a small houndstooth in a slightly stretchy wool blend. Not much but enough to complicate things especially when time came to assemble the belt and the button placket.
        The first placket I made I did not pay very much attention to the fabric pattern and I ended up with two adjacent black lines - very disturbing visually and some vertical shifting. I knew then I had to do it by hand. So I got comfortable turned the tv on, took a deep breath and started doing one of the things I like less: hand sewing. The second placket was alright but I did not like the buttons. Decided that I wanted a less intrusive closure - if possible invisible. For the third I used sew on snaps. It resulted too bulky with the thickness of the snaps and there was also some gapping. It just wouldn’t lie flat! For the final one I crossed my fingers and used sew in snaps. This instagram pic demonstrates the construction. If you want to know more just ask :) !


Chemise Bruyere


Chemise Bruyere


Chemise Bruyere


        I am pleased with the result although as you can see the back is still to long.
        I’m sorry we had really bad weather lately and I couldn't photograph it outside and the inside pictures are not at all good - they don’t do it justice.
        btw I am wearing my latest (i. e. second ;) pair of Ginger Jeans!

        And because here in Italy American Horror Story: Freak Show is about to premiere I leave you with my creepiest grin ad also with the proof the neckline opening is still too big.


Chemise Bruyere


Sasha






Thank you for visiting. I would love to hear your opinion.

Bruyère



        Sto indossando un cilindro nel vano tentativo di distogliere la vostra attenzione dalle linee che combaciano male e dalla moiré nelle foto!


Chemise Bruyere


        Questa è la Camicia Bruyère di Deer&Doe in un mix di taglie e con sopra talmente tante alterazioni che per scovare il cartamodello originale servirebbe una pala. Perché? Perché la mia corporatura è moooolto diversa dallo "standard" Deer&Doe. Questo cartamodello non è uno generico e quando dico generico intendo basato su qualche blocco base generico come quelli nei libri di modellistica. Questo cartamodello è stato adattato per una corporatura ben precisa e penso questo ne provi la "originalità" - ultimamente ci sono state un po' di discussioni sull'originalità dei cartamodelli indipendenti.


Camicia Bruyere Camicia Bruyere


        Nonostante le differenze in conformazione tra me è la modella di Deer&Doe il design di questo cartamodello mi piaceva (e mi piace) così tanto che ho deciso di affrontare tutte le modifiche da fare. Anzitutto ridurre il busto da una coppa D a una quasi B. Ho dovuto inoltre allungare di parecchio il corpetto - quando Eléonore, la designer, dice 168cm di altezza, sono 168 cm di altezza. Come misura base ho tagliato una 36. Anche se lo scollo l'ho tagliato in misura 34 l'ho comunque dovuto ridurre ancora di c. 1cm ed ancora non basta. Mi piace poter indossare le mie camicie abbottonate fino all'ultimo bottone se mi va.


Camicia Bruyere


        Ho aggiunto 1cm alla lunghezza spalla e 1,5cm al colmo manica. Perché non ho alcuna intenzione di indossare questa camicia per fare lavori di manovalanza o per andare a correre ho ridotto la vestibilità nella schiena di c. 3cm. Lo stesso per la manica all'altezza bicipite. Ho anche alzato l'incavo. Si lo so ho dovuto fare parecchie modifiche - così tanto mi piace questo design.


Camicia Bruyere


        Il tessuto è un pied-de-poule piccolo in un misto lana un po' elasticizzato. Non molto, quanto basta per complicare le cose quando si è trattato di confezionare la cintura ed il cannoncino.
        Quando ho cucito il primo cannoncino non sono stata particolarmente attenta alla distribuzione delle linee perciò sono finita con due linee nere adiacenti - visivamente molto fastidioso, e qualche slittamento verticale del pattern. Ho capito che lo dovevo farlo a mano. Mi sono mesa comoda, ho acceso la Tv, fatto un bel respiro ed iniziato con la cosa che meno mi piace in assoluto: cucire a mano. Il secondo cannoncino e venuto ok ma non mi piacevano i bottoni. Ho deciso che preferivo una chiusura con un minore impatto, possibilmente invisibile. Per il terzo perciò ho usato dei bottoni a pressione del tipo "sew on" che però creavano troppo spessore. Dunque arriviamo al quarto cannoncino per il quale ho utilizzato sempre dei bottoni a pressione sta volta del tipo "sew in" . Questa immagine instagram ne dimostra la costruzione. Se avete delle altre domande chiedete :) !


Bruyere Shirt


Bruyere Shirt


Bruyere Shirt


        Sono contenta del risultato anche se come si puo vedere la schiena e ancora troppo lunga.
        Mi dispiace se a causa del maltempo, che i giorni passati si è abbattuto sulla mia zona, non sono riuscita a fotografarla fuori è le immagini in interno non sono chissà che.
        a proposito sto indossando il mio secondo paio di Ginger Jeans!

        Visto che in Italia American Horror Story: Freak Show andrà in prima questi giorni, vi lascio con il mio più raccapricciante sogghigno e la prova che lo scollo è ancora troppo grande.


Deer Doe Bruyere Shirt


Sasha






Grazie della visita. Mi piacerebbe moltissimo sentire la vostra opinione.

63 comments:

  1. top hat is a great distraction :) I should get one too ;) it's great you had the nerves to do all the alterations.. the shirt suits you perfectly :) the thing I like the most are details in other fabric ;)

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    1. Thank you Tea! I enjoy very much playing with the details ;)

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  2. i admire you for doing all that work (no way in hell i would ever do that, i stick to the burda patterns, as i'm quite close to their 'standard', and hardly ever need to do any alterations at all).. your hard work paid off, it's a great shirt! and i love the hat too!

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    1. ... hehe ...I have to do lots of work on burda patterns too, maybe not as much, some of them are closer to an industrial standard I guess - but is good exercise ;) The thing that puts me off with Burda is the styling - no desirability whatsoever... I prefer to see them made by bloggers than by their styling team!

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  3. I think you also need a whip..... Anyway you are a very clever seamstress and I adore the contrast placket and under collar. Your fit is really great consider all those adjustments. I didn't realise D&D were designed for a D cup.... I think the last pic is a bit more A Clockwork Orange.... but prettier!

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    1. .... omg now I see it - the only thing missing is the eyelash thing! :D ! If you check my ig you can see in one of the pics the unaltered shape of the front bodice!

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  4. Love it - especially how the contrasting fabric creates a bit of a fake tie effect. Tres chic. And I would most likely have to make the same adjustments as you...

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    1. Thank you Ingrid :) ... I think you have the advantage of having those really beautiful shoulders that I envy very much !!!

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  5. This us so awesome I can't breathe!

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  6. i'm not sure what you don't like about the lines because this looks so sharp! and if the neck bothers you, why not go full monty on the look and add a cravat :))?

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    1. The web/jpg compression/ moiré thing hides them quite well I would have never thought ;) ! A cravat is a very good idea :D !

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  7. Ahahah... ma quanto ho riso per il cilindro. Mi dispiace deluderti però perché la tua figura cattura molto di più! ;) anche solo per tutte le modifiche che hai dovuto apportare ti meriti un bel applauso! Mi piacciono tantissimo gli inserti blu che si abbinano perfettamente ai tuoi jeans! ;)

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    1. Grazie mille Lucia!
      hehehe ... I scherzi della luce :) I jeans sono neri!

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  8. A labour of love with that placket but definitely worth every minute! I love the contrasts on the cuff placket and under collar they add such an interesting dimension too!

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    1. Thank you Jennifer! A Bruyere in wool houndstooth is not your everyday kind of shirt so I figured why not take it even further with the details ;)

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  9. Bellissima, Sasha! L'effetto "finta cravatta" è veramente GENIALE!
    Complimenti per la pazienza con le alterazioni, hanno decisamente ripagato! :)
    p.s. la scollatura e il collo sono volutamente loose perchè a Eléonore non piace l'effetto soffocante (io invece sono in linea con i tuoi gusti.

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    1. Grazie Anna!
      Quello che più invidio nelle camicie high-end uomo e la misura collo! Un collo "su misura" mette la camicia su un altro livello rispetto al rtw di massa - perche gli uomini si e noi no ?:- (se non vuoi essere soffocata puoi sempre aprire il bottone ;)

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    2. I know what you mean :) . Bruyère is specifically designed with a casual vibe (waist is not super-cinched, collar is loose, no last button) but I think you could totally keep the bottom of the pattern and adapt another bodice to obtain a sharper, more tailored effect :)

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    3. Oh ... Eléonore I think the cool part about sewing is that you get the opportunity to adapt and transform patterns to match your personal taste. I love the bodice you constructed - I love the facings the collar the yoke the placket the double darts ❤!!! - but I just do not like how I look with lots of fabric around my upper body (unless it's a purposefully oversized look) - I think it makes me look malnourished ;). I think I got it to the tailored level I wanted and I don't think I could have make it look sharper than this after all that is wool it's thick and soft. Why on earth would I want to abandon your beautiful construction and franken it. Nobody was holding a gun to my head to finish it and I do enjoy researching a good fit: It appeals to my inner problem solver ;)

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  10. This is freaking fabulous Sasha, nice details and brava for all the work you put into it. What is that about indie patterns originality? Who is questioning it?

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    1. Thank you Aida! If you have not heard about it I won't post links right now I do not want to give credit to rumours and accusations without expressing my opinion! Maybe in a later post I will tackle the subject.

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  11. I like the silhouette you achieved with shirt. This is the first version I have seen thats made me want to make it����

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    1. Thank you Hila ! It's a very nice compliment :D - for what is worth I think it would look very nice on you!

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  12. sei di una bravura immensa Sasha, davvero!hai fatto un lavoro splendido e i tuoi particolari sono sempre splendidi!bravissima!!!!ps: ginger jeans for the win!

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    1. Grazie mille Niko! sai che mi piace giocare con i particolari ;)

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  13. I love Deer and Doe because the pattern block is exactly tailored to my body shape, so their patterns fit me perfectly! I do think it's interesting that indie companies tailor to a certain body shape ie D&D is hourglass, Sewaholic is pear. You might like to try Named patterns as they are drafted for a taller, willowy lady. The Bruyere is not my favourite design but your version is really interesting - I love the pops of blue plaid.

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    1. you are one fortunate gal! I love Eleonore's design so much! Non only indie companies create to a specific body shape but every body rtw and high-end too. Every fashion label either conducts its own research or commissions one or buys a standard from specialised companies. The indie paternmakers do not have such resources so they most likely find a "fit model" to produce the pattern and assess fit and then grade up and down from there. I will definitely try Named - I also happen to think their patterns would work for me and their line has some really interesting designs.

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  14. Your hard work definitely paid off! I admire your patience with the pattern. If it were me, I'd stop working on it. Same as Mokosha, I mainly work with Burda (as well as a few other indie designer) patterns to avoid multiple alterations. Cudos on another great pair of the Gigner jeans :)

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    1. Thanks Inna! I feel no pressure whatsoever to finish the things I sew for myself - it's a hobby and a good exercise for my school work (that I get enough pressure to make and finish already ;)

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  15. You did a really great job on your shirt ! I love the neck tie effect !

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  16. ahah molto carino il sogghigno XD Fare una camicia è veramente difficile, ma ci sei riuscita alla grande mi piace veramente molto come ti sta =) Sono curiosa di sapere quale sarà la tua prossima creazione =)

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    1. Grazie Sara sei come sempre molto gentile ... (anticipazione: cappottino sportivo ;)

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  17. Gorgeous! Well done for persevering with all the fit issues; the end result is definitely worth it.

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    1. Thank you so much Danielle ... I do not like giving up on the things that I do ... I'm obsessive and I know they will just haunt me!

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  18. This is so beautiful! And the fit looks great (I guess the neck thing is a minor one and as a person above said, why not wear it with a scarf or a tie?

    Btw, your last pic reminds me of the clockwork orange hahaha

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    1. Thanks Billie... yeah a cravat is the way to go I guess.
      Now I feel like and obligation to digitally add the eyelash thing ;) !

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  19. Wow! This looks so great on you! I love your peeps of contrasting fabric, so cool! You've really perfected the fit- I'm so impressed!

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    1. Thank you Ginger ... I think I'm a fit freak ;) so finding out you think I perfected the fit really made my day!

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  20. Alright - that turned out beautifully, which it should have for the amount of alterations you had to do!

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  21. Bellissima!!! Adoro la scelta del tessuto (pied de poule forever), ma ancora di più i dettagli in tartan. Stupendi! Sei veramente brava: hai fatto così tante modifiche e il risultato ti sta benissimo! E niente, a me il cilindro (e l'ultima foto in particolare) mi ricorda Alexander DeLarge ;) ;*

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    1. Grazie Tiz! per me pied de poule mai più !!! fino alla prossima volta ;)
      Versione Sasha DeLarge su IG!!!

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  22. Wow. This looks really great! I admire your perseverance and your attention to detail, and I love the little contrasting fabric details!

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    1. Thank you so much Kate! I'm glad you say perseverance, I think it too :D my fiancee says ocd ! he knows nothing!

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  23. mi piace moltissimo, come tutti i tuoi lavori ;)

    Vanessa Van
    http://vanessavanhandmade.blogspot.it

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  24. Ciao Sasha bel lavoro e soprattutto complimenti per tutta la pazienza che hai avuto nelle varie modifiche da fare!!! l'unica cosa non ho capito, forse sono dura io, quando parli di primo,secondo, terzo e quarto cannoncino è perchè hai fatto quattro prove prima di trovare la soluzione giusta??? Wow che pazienza complimenti!!! Mi piace moltissimo come hai rifinito l'interno manica e il cannoncino davanti con l'effetto cravatta molto originale!!!
    E da un po' che ho adocchiato i cartamodelli Deer & Doe e sto pensando di acquistarne alcuni adesso poi che mi dici che sono studiati su uno standard di fisico,presumo come quello della modella nel loro shop non dovrei avere particolari problemi ad adattarlo al mio fisico che è molto simile!!!
    Complimenti per il tuo lavoro e l'attenzione ai particolari!!!

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    1. eh si... l'ho rifatto quattro volte! A te Deer&Doe starebbe molto bene e non solo come vestibilità ma anche come stile. Un bacione!

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  25. Il tuo ghigno finale mi fa sorridere tantissimo! :)
    Molto bello il cartamodello e molto bella la tua realizzazione. Mi piace la stoffa bianca e nera abbinata al dettaglio blu a contrasto. Hai avuto un sacco di pazienza nel fare tutti gli adattamenti. Anch'io ho questo modello nella mia sewing list...spero di non dover fare troppe modifiche! Ti farò sapere. Un abbraccio e a presto!

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    1. Grazie Martina! Da come ti è venuto il Belladone non ho dubbi che potrai cucire anche la Bruyere senza nessuna modifica - fortunata tu, invidiosa io ;) e non ho dubbi che sarà uno spettacolo.
      Un bacione!

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  26. Well, I think it turned out really well for all your troubles! The proportions are quite nice; it seems to suit you perfectly. The design is a bit cutesy, and you've hit a really good balance with this chic fabric combo. :) I haven't been attracted to many Deer & Doe styles yet (though I do want to try the Plantain tee soon) but it sounds like they might fit me well if there's one I especially love in the future! Thanks for the tip!

    Also, on AHS I'll say this (without spoilers or my general feelings about it); get ready for a whole lot of crazy!

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    1. Yeah... I instinctively feel the need to tone down the pretty pretty girly vibe and I'm glad I managed to do so :) I actually can see you in a Plantain I am so curious how you would style it!
      Seen the first AHS episode ... you are absolutely right ... a whooooole lot of crazy!

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  27. This is the ONLY version of Bruyere that I ever liked. I love what you did with the contrast fabric on the band. I may steal that idea and be utterly un-original (but I won't try to sell it, I promise!!) ;-)

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    1. hahaha .... laughing .... still laughing .... love you xx

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  28. You are the coolest cat in the world! I so want to be you when I grow up and let's just say I am estimating my age is far greater than yours. I have loved this shirt since its release, but like you I do not fit the figure for this pattern company. Not by a long shot, with my barely a-cup. Eek! But I'm betting yours would fit me. If you ever get sick of it send it my way xx

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    1. ... hmmmm ... I just wouldn't put my money on it ;). If you give me your body (a-cup included) I'll give you my shirt. xo

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  29. I love the fabric combo you have going on! You're right it's a great design, and I love the result. I've never tried any Deer & Doe patterns, but I admire the concept they have going on, as you say it's very original. Maybe some day my daughter will want one of their dresses. I suspect she would require lots of mods for fit as well, though she is shortwaisted.

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    1. Thank you Sara ... Deer&Doe definitely has a unique style and concept ... it may not be necessarily my style but I surely admire a strong personality!

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  30. Fantastic post - Great explainations and thinking.I'm looking forward to what you have for us next..!
    Fruits

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