May 14, 2015

Linden #1

Linden #1



Grainline Linden


        In a very uncharacteristic bout of selfless sewing, I made this sweatshirt as a birthday present for my friend Chiara. She is the epitome of “outdoorsiness” so I figured a Linden would be perfect for her. I wanted a strong color (she needs to be “visible” when guiding people down some mountain trail) but all I could find in the shops that I visited was black, grey and white (sigh). It’s a very soft very stretchy (bi-stretch actually) 96% CO, 4% EA fleece therefore I bought white thinking I could dye it. The color I used is called Tulip Red - from Coloreria Italiana. I know, it’s not the most eco-friendly thing in the world to use but it was my only option - sigh again.


Grainline Linden


        I cut a size 4 with no fitting modifications whatsoever. I intended it to be a surprise gift and I could not ask my friend to come in for fitting. Actually this is one of the reasons I chose the Linden. I know the work of Jen from Grainline Studio to be very close to the high-end industrial standards and I expected the fit to be good as is.


Grainline Linden Grainline Linden


        The main concern I had making this sweatshirt was avoiding those ripply, stretched seams that I abhor and were a real possibility given the stretchiness of the fabric and the on bias seam of the raglan sleeve. I closed the seams with my overlocker and then topstitched with my sewing machine and a decorative stretch stitch (number 14 on my Bernina). During the execution of this stitch the feed dogs go back and forth and can stretch the fabric so I used the walking foot and had to fiddle quite a bit with the presser foot pressure (thank god for that option).


Linden Sweatshirt


        Adding contrast trims was a stylistic decision that posed it’s own set of problems: of course I had no suitable ribbing (the one I did have was rather thick and stiff and using it would have resulted in really bulky seams). I used instead some equally stretchy grey sweatshirt fleece on crosswise direction.


Linden Sweatshirt


        I tried a different approach to constructing this sweatshirt. I first closed the raglan seams and topstitched them. I attached the unfolded bands (I did widened them by 1in. total at the neck and 2in. total at hem and cuffs - if memory serves correctly) - fold line pressed. I then joined the side seams and topstitched at the base of the collar band, hem and cuffs catching the open edge under the serged seam allowances. This method reduced bulk by one layer but required lots of pins and curse words.
        I knew that not using ribbing at the neck meant possible deformation with wear resulting in one of those highly unaesthetic collar bands that flare and gape and would not lie flat so I reinforced the top of the band with clear elastic. It is sewn on the inside along the fold line. The triangle it is not only a decoration but also reinforces the front of the neckline that as we know, tends to stretch out of shape. What IS a mostly decorative element … is the drawstring a bit a là dsquared.


Linden Sweatshirt


        This post is called Linden #1 because I anticipate a Linden #2, #3 …. #n in my wardrobe.
        I love sweatshirts. This Linden came together beautifully in about 5 hours and I am a really relaxed sewer. I like to take my time and enjoy the process (of course I maybe would have enjoyed it a bit more if it was for myself ;), although I got to wear it to take the pictures - I am such a selfish one).
        What about you? Do you take your time or maybe get into that maker’s frenzy dying to see your project finished?


Linden Sweatshirt





Thank you for visiting. I would love to hear your opinion.

Linden #1



Linden Sweatshirt


        Lo so, suona strano detto da me … ma ho cucito qualcosa per qualcun’altra!!! - la mia amica, Chiara. Essendo Chiara l’icona della vita all’aperto ho pensato che una felpa Linden sarebbe stata perfetta per lei. Ho voluto un colore acceso, che fosse ben visibile quando accompagna gruppi sui sentieri di montagna. Sfortunatamente nei negozi tutto quello che ho trovato era nero, grigio o bianco. Ho scelto una felpa molto elastica (anzi bi-elastica), 96% CO, 4%EA bianca, pensando di tingerla. Per la tintura ho usato il Rosso Tulipano della Coloreria Italiana - lo so no è una scelta veramente eco-friendly ma unica mia opzione. Conoscete per caso modi migliori per tingere tessuto in casa?


Felpa Linden


        Ho tagliato una misura 4 e non ho fato alcuna modifica/alterazione. Per un regalo sorpresa non poi veramente chiamare a prove. Ed è questa un’altra ragione per la quale ho scelto il Linden. So che il lavoro di Jen di Grainline Studio è molto vicino agli standard sartoriali industriali di alto livello perciò mi aspettavo una buona vestibilità senza modifiche.


Felpa Linden Felpa Linden


        La mia preoccupazione principale durante il confezionamento è stata di evitare le cuciture tirate che producono quelle onde che detesto - una vera possibilità considerando l’elasticità del tessuto e della cucitura sullo sbieco delle maniche raglan. Ho assemblato con la tagliacuci e poi ho fatto le impunture con la machina da cucire e un punto elastico decorativo (numero 14 della mia Bernina). Durante l’esecuzione di questo punto le griffe di trasporto vanno avanti e indietro e possono tirare il tessuto dunque ho usato un piedino doppio trasporto e regolato la pressione del piedino (svariati tentativi) - grazie a Dio la mia machina da la possibilità.


Felpa Linden


        Aggiungere le finiture a contrasto è stata una decisione di styling che ha posto un set di problemi tutto suo. Ovviamente non avevo il bordo a costine adatto ma uno troppo spesso e troppo rigido che avrebbe reso le cuciture troppo pesanti. Ho usato invece, della felpa grigia ugualmente elastica in direzione trasversale.


Grainline Studio Linden


        Ho voluto provare un metodo di confezionamento un po' diverso. Prima ho chiuso il raglan e ho fatto le impunture. Ho aggiunto i bordini non piegati - (li ho allargati di 2.5cm totali al collo e 5cm totali a polsi e fondo - se mi ricordo bene) - dopo aver precedentemente creato la linea di piegatura con il ferro da stiro. Ho eseguito le cuciture laterali e poi le impunture dei bordi prendendo dentro, sotto i margini fatti con la tagliacuci anche i margini liberi delle finiture. Ho ridotto così l’ingombro di un strato ma ho sprecato tante parolacce e spilli.
        Sapevo che non usando le costine attorno al collo, c’era la possibilità che portando la felpa lo scollo perdesse elasticità e si sformasse in quel modo odioso e non stesse più piatto. Per ovviare ho cucito dentro il collo, elastico in silicone trasparente. Il triangolo non e soltanto un elemento decorativo ma serve anche da rinforzo per lo scollo. Il cordoncino a là dsquared invece è puramente decorativo.


Grainline Studio Linden


        Questo post si chiama Linden #1 perché prevedo la nascita di un Linden #2, #3 … #n.
        Adoro le felpe e questa si e praticamente confezionata da sola, senza nessun intoppo in circa 5 ore - ed io sono molto rilassata quando cucio. Mi piace andare piano e godermi il processo (forse avrei goduto un po di più se la felpa fosse rimasta nel mio armadio ;) anche se l’ho indossata poi per le foto - ahhhh penso solo a me stessa).
        E voi? Quando cucite vi piace prendervela con calma oppure vi sale quella sorta di delirio che ti spinge a voler vedere il progetto compiuto il prima possibile?


Linden Sweatshirt





Grazie della visita. Mi piacerebbe moltissimo sentire la vostra opinione.

56 comments:

  1. I love the contrasting trim and the stitching. It really makes this sweatshirt.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If I get to make it I might as well make it a bit interesting 😉!

      Delete
  2. Bellissima questa felpa, la tua amica Chiara sarà stata felicissima! L'avevo già presa in considerazione, ma ero molto indecisa perché ho visto da poco un modello simile con il cappuccio, non mi ricordo di chi. Ma la vestibilità mi sembra perfetta, quindi penso che la proverò anch'io a breve! Ho in programma di farmi una bella felpa il prossimo autunno. Mi piace moltissimo il punto decorativo che hai utilizzato sulla manica raglan, l'effetto è molto bello. Non prendo mai in considerazione i punti decorativi, ma varrebbe la pena provarli ogni tanto (anche se la mia macchina non ha molte varianti). Dovrei fare qualche prova ;) L’elastico in silicone trasparente l’hai cucito all’interno del bordo grigio sul collo? Non è visibile dall’interno giusto?
    Io sono in perenne conflitto tra il prendermela con comodo e il delirio di finire il prima possibile, ma ultimamente mi sono data una calmata e mi godo di più il lavoro ;)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Grazie Martina! L'elastico e cucito all'interno del bordo - in mezzo sulla piega - non si vede ne dall'esterno. ne dall'interno... si vede solo la cucitura sulla faccia interna del bordo - ho usato lo stesso punto delle impunture - ho uno zig zag grande --- boh... sai che non me lo ricordo !!! (andrei a guardare ma non ce l'ho :o

      Delete
  3. It's beautiful! It looks like a Patagonia (Patagucci as my husband calls it) sweatshirt or one of those other high-end outdoor gear brands.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I looove Patagucci!!! I love the word especially ... the wit of your hubby falls spot on! I'll take Patagucci every day :D !!!!

      Delete
  4. It suits her wonderfully - I love the contrast stitching on the raglan sleeve. It looks lovely and cosy!!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Complimentoni era da un po' che non vedevo le tue creazioni e come al solito sono stupende e curate in ogni dettaglio =)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Grazie Sara! .... si il mio blog sta arrancando un po --- troppi impegni ultimamente,,, ma ci conto di recuperare :)

      Delete
  6. This looks utterly fantastic on you! That colour! And the contrasting bands. It's too perfect for words. Pity it's a gift ;) Your friend is going to love this, such beautifully thought out details making it just a bit more special. Once I get started on a project I want it finished and being worn. Also my sewing time is so very limited and piecemeal. I have to squeeze it in whenever I can - maybe an hour or two, or just a minute or two. I'd love to be leisurely :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I like it I really like it but you know what... I was thinking I can't imagine making a copy for myself ... a replica - It would feel like a job somehow, automatic ... so if I see that my friend doesn't wear it I might consider stealing it back ;) Another thing I'm having some difficulty wrapping my head around is how the f... do you Jillian manage to make so many wonderful things just by squeezing time now and then - you must have magic in your fingertips!

      Delete
  7. Ah such lovely attention to detail. A gorgeous gift and I think the dyeing was a very clever thought indeed! I just had a very unsatisfactory wavy seam incident on my overlocker and have been researching preventions and cures since... Something to do with differentials.... Anyway, I'm very focussed when sewing - time drifts away and I just want to get it done! If I'm limited with time I have to set a timer on my phone!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ... oh yes the differential transport on overlockers feels like magic compared with a regular sewing machine transport - and from that point of view my overlocker has been really behaving herself - I'm blowing her a kiss right now (all my machines are women) ! Time does seem to fly by when you do what you like doesn't it ?!... maybe te secret in living a very long life is doing only what you hate!

      Delete
  8. Your Linden looks great :-) the colours go together beautifully - your friend is lucky :-). I do tend to take my time too on projects with *all the distractions* :-)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Jennifer! There are waaaay too many *distractions* right!? but hey I'm not payed by the hour - I'm not payed at all - so who cares!

      Delete
  9. Such a lovely gift! I'm sure your friend will love it. I'm always impressed by your for detail and a pattern's potential - very inspiring! Hope you get some time for numbers 2 and 3 very soon :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Danielle ... have you made the Linden yet? def there will be versions 2 & 3 as soon as I finish finessing my own sweatshirt pattern 😉 ;)

      Delete
  10. This is a beautiful version of this sweatshirt!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Chrinner !
      p.s. your blog went straight into my newsreader - so much cool stuff!

      Delete
  11. Your sweatshirt is so great! And not too baggy like many I've seen. I'm curious about your comment about feeling bad about using the red dye. Is dying things harmful to the environment?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank You Justine ... I'm glad you like it! Depends on the dyes one uses. Unfortunately the dyes most readily found here in Italy are the ones you use in the washing machine and the carry a harmful chemicals label. There are also natural dyes but I couldn't find them here :(

      Delete
  12. I love the triangle at the neckline and the drawstring - those are really fun elements!

    ReplyDelete
  13. Great looking, and as usual impeccably made. You are such a meticulous sewer , the seams and the cut look beautiful , your friend is lucky!

    ReplyDelete
  14. It's just as beautiful up close as it is from afar! I love the raw edges on the trim. It must have been difficult to do but the effect, with the topstitching and all, is so refined! I might try to copy this technique sometime.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Sara :D I hope I explained what I did well because there are no open raw edges on this ?:-)

      Delete
  15. lovely sweatshirt Sasha, l like the decorative stitch you used in the sleeves, looking forward to see your own pattern as till now all your patterns have been noteworthy.
    When I started sewing I did rush finishing my projects as I couldn't wait to see how they would look like but that didn't last long.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Aida ... you are making me blush :*)

      Delete
  16. I absolutely love the colour and the contrast! I've always wanted to use those decorative stitches on my machine - you've inspired me :) These days I can only snatch moments here and there to sew so it's not as leisurely as I would like.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I remember the first time I went to a dealer to see about a sewing machine - his sales pitch for every machine started with how many millions stitches that machine had - met with a blank stare from my part: "I only need four " ;)

      Delete
  17. Chiara è una ragazza fortunata perché questa felpa è davvero bella! Adoro il contrasto e i particolari aggiunti come il triangolo e il cordoncino. E i punti decorativi? Mi sa che con questo post hai ispirato molte di noi ad usarli di più. Anch'io ce li ho e non li uso mai perché non mi viene mai in mente! Quando cucio in realtà vado un po' di fretta perché non vedo l'ora di vedere il capo finito e perché non ho molto tempo a disposizione - pagherei per cucire per 5 ore consecutive! Ma sto cercando di godermi di più il procedimento curando le finiture. Sempre troppo brava!!! E non vedo l'ora di vedere le altre versioni di Linden! :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Grazie Tiz :D ... è vero i punti decorativi non li usiamo quasi mai! Cmq sto giro ho usato persino gli alfabeti per scrivere il suo nome e la data sull'etichetta (che non vi ho fatto vedere per privacy) !!!

      Delete
  18. Wow, I would have not thought of that topstitch on the raglan sleeve... it looks super professional!

    ReplyDelete
  19. This is really beautiful! I love it! What a gorgeous gift!

    ReplyDelete
  20. Bella bella! Avevo usato quel punto una volta per un cardigan ed è molto bello! Quei due colori insieme sono fantastici. Onestamente non tutti i bordi per felpe mi piacciono quindi preferisco la tua soluzione! Fossi in te farei una copia! Non credo che la tua amica te la restituisca....

    ReplyDelete
  21. This is one of the best I have seen yet!! Love it.

    ReplyDelete
  22. Una versione meritevole di applausi a scena aperta: un lavoro encomiabile (adoro la cucitura decorativa sulla spalla!), come al solito Sasha! Bravissima!!! Un bacione grandissimo!!!!

    ReplyDelete
  23. Hi Sasha, I only "found" you a couple of months ago, and I'm so pleased I did. The way you skillfully craft garments is inspiring, and your approach to your projects seems more practical and methodical than mine (you search for the perfect fabric for an item, whereas I allow myself to be seduced by fabric and then often have months to wait before the right project arrives to thrill me into action, and I'm normally left with wasted fabric off-cuts, or worse, I'm horrified to find I don't have sufficient.

    ReplyDelete
  24. Molto carina davvero, mi piace!

    ReplyDelete
  25. Beautiful! I really like all the special details that you added, that drawstring makes it look super awesome!

    ReplyDelete
  26. Not usually a fan of sweater tops, but love this one.

    ReplyDelete
  27. Not usually a fan of sweater tops, but love this one.

    ReplyDelete
  28. Not usually a fan of sweater tops, but love this one.

    ReplyDelete
  29. Hi Sasha, I've been following you for a while and I hugely admire your style and skill (I think your Makery shirt refashion was far and away the best).I wonder, could you help me with a technical issue? I'm about to publish my first blog post (from Veneto) and would like it to appear in two versions, English and Italian - as yours does. I'm very inexperienced with computers, and would really appreciate your advice on how you did this, and how much it cost.Thank you, and I can't wait to see what you're working on next, Sally

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Sally, thank you for the nice words :) unfortunately I'm afraid I can't be of much help to you. Our blogs use different platforms; this is blogger and yours is wordpress and therefore different engines. Sadly what I did for this blog would not work for a wordpress blog :(. If I can help you with something else send me an email (link in profile) . Looking forward to reading your blog... the intro sounds promising
      xx

      Delete
  30. Ciao Sasha, sono passata solo per lasciarti un saluto.
    Spero tu stia bene. Un abbraccio :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ciao Elisabetta ... che gentile da parte tua! Si tutto bene ... molto impegnata e sfortunatamente questo blog è stato il primo ad essere sacrificato di fronte agli impegni (sai com'è ;) ... Adesso però sto lavorando a un nuovo progetto blog www.secondopiano.space su Facebook e sopratutto su Instagram ( link nelle icone sopra)
      Un abbraccio anche a te e spero anche tu stia bene :)

      Delete
  31. sei bravissima! come veste la Linden? ho appena preso il cartamodello ma sono in dubbio sulletaglie... pensavo una 3 o 4, non vorrei che fosse troppo aderente... che dici?

    ReplyDelete
  32. sei bravissima! come veste la Linden? ho appena preso il cartamodello ma sono in dubbio sulletaglie... pensavo una 3 o 4, non vorrei che fosse troppo aderente... che dici?

    ReplyDelete
  33. Nice post. Seems to be very genuine. I am a professional writer from essay writing service. This is one of the top most online writing service provider with well qualified writers.

    ReplyDelete
  34. This is one of the best!i like it, im usually a fan of sweater tops, but this one is love.

    ReplyDelete
  35. This is a beautiful women i ever see , Love it. keep posting

    ReplyDelete

Google+