Oct 2, 2014

Dungarees!

Dungarees!



        Are the 90’s back? No they are not but the dungarees seem to be back at least for the last couple of seasons - an updated version anyway. I couldn’t figure out the dungarees trend until I made a pair.


Turia Dungarees Pauline Alice


        I hate tight waistbands, especially the ones that hit my natural waist. I spend lots of time sitting and I am convinced that a tight band around my midsection is bad for my internal organs. Well, dungarees offer complete midsection freedom!


Salopette Turia Salopette Turia


        The pattern I used is the Turia Dungarees by Pauline Alice Patterns. Love it! It’s simple to make and easy to customise. I had to fit it for my height and my pronounced swayback (had to lower substantially the front crotch). I lowered the waistline and put in a mock waistband thus changed the proportion between the upper body portion and the lower body. I find that, visually, it works better for my figure.

        Because I used stretch denim I thought of giving them all those typical jeans features: topstitching, rivets, etc.


Turia Dungarees Turia Dungarees


        The front fly is totally fake ;)!

        After basting the side seams to try the fit I realised that the stretchiness of the fabric together with the lowered waist was enough to allow me to put them on without the use of a side zipper. I was very happy to do without the zipper because I couldn’t find one with a metal color consistent with the rivets, the buckles and the buttons.

        The shape of the back pockets was inspired by some RTW jeans I have and is one of my favourites. Too bad that relying on my fiancees “yeah yeah they’re fine” I ended up placing them a bit too low.


Turia Dungarees Turia Dungarees


        My machine refused to work with the jeans thread so I used two spools of cotton all purpose thread.
        I distressed the fabric using sandpaper and learned how to do it by taking Angela Wolf’s Sewing Designer Jeans class on Craftsy! Great class … great instructor … highly recommend it! One thing thou … when sanding your jeans fabric put on a face mask or something! After an evening distressing my denim a smurf took up residence inside my nostrils and I don’t know how toxic those fabric dyes are!


Salopette Turia


        RECAP
        Pattern: Turia Dungarees http://www.paulinealicepatterns.com/turia-dungarees by Pauline Alice Patterns
        Main fabric: Stretch denim: 97% cotton, 3% elastan
        Facings fabric: printed cotton lawn
        Notions: 4 rivets, 2 overalls buckles, 2 jeans buttons
        Mods: lowered the waist, made a mock waistband and added some classic jeans elements.


Salopette Turia


        I love it … It instantly became my “no fuss go to garment”. Pauline Alice did a great job designing this pattern! Speaking of Pauline, I’m pleased to announce that I’ll be accompanying her at the Abilmente Fair in Vicenza. Yay! … More on the subject in a special post this Sunday, together with a giveaway!
In the meantime if you are looking for some dungarees inspiration check out this Glamour Magazine post!



Thank you for visiting. I would love to hear your opinion.

Salopette!



        Sono tornati gli anni 90? Fortunatamente no… o almeno non ancora … per il momento solo la salopette sembra essere tornata almeno da due, tre stagioni - una versione aggiornata comunque. Non sono riuscita a capire il perché di questo trend finché non ne ho confezionata una.


Turia Dungarees Pauline Alice


        Odio le cinture strette in vita, specialmente quelle che si posizionano all’altezza della vita naturale. Passo gran parte del mio tempo seduta e sono convinta che avere una cintura che strangola la vita non fa tanto bene agli organi interni. Da questo punto di vista salopette = totale libertà.


Salopette Turia Salopette Turia


        Il Cartamodello che ho usato è il Turia Dungarees di Pauline Alice Patterns. Lo adoro! E semplice da confezionare e facile da modificare. Ho dovuto adattare per la mia altezza e per la iperlordosi lombare (abbassare parecchio il cavallo anteriore). Ho abbassato anche la vita e aggiunto una falsa cintura cambiando così le proporzioni tra la parte superiore e inferiore. Trovo che da un punto di vista visivo, funzionano meglio per la mia figura.

        Dato che ho usato denim elasticizzato ho pensato di aggiungere i dettagli tipici dei jeans: impunture, ribattini, ecc.


Salopette Turia Salopette Turia


        La patta e totalmente finta ;) !

        Dopo aver imbastito le cuciture ai lati per provare la salopette mi sono resa conto che la combinazione tra il tessuto elasticizzato e la vita bassa rendeva superflue l’uso di una chiusura lampo sul fianco. Non mi è dispiaciuto affatto rinunciare alla lampo non essendo stata in grado di trovare una cerniera con le parti metalliche dallo stesso colore dei bottoni e delle fibbie.

        La forma delle tasche dietro è una delle mie preferite. Peccato che fidandomi del “vanno benissssssssimo” del mio fidanzato sono finita col piazzarle un po’ troppo in basso.


Pauline Alice Dungarees Pauline Alice Dungarees


        La mia macchina si è rifiutata di lavorare con il filo jeans che avevo comprato perciò ho dovuto usare due rocchetti di filo di cottone normale.
        Ho “invecchiato” il tessuto usando carta vetrata ed ho imparato come farlo seguendo il corso Sewing Designer Jeans di Angela Wolf su Craftsy. Ottimo corso .. brava l’istruttrice! Un’unica cosa … quando usate la carta vetrata per “invecchiare” il denim usate anche una mascherina. Dopo una serata di lavoro sembrava un puffo avesse preso residenza nelle mie narici e non so quanto non tossiche siano le tinture che vengono usate nella produzione del denim.


Pauline Alice Dungarees


        RECAP
        C.M.: Turia Dungarees di Pauline Alice Patterns
        Tessuto: Denim elasticizzato: 97% cottone, 3% elastam
        Tessuto paramonture: battista stampata di cottone
        Merceria: 4 ribattini, 2 fibbie da salopette, 2 bottoni per jeans
        Mods: Ho abbassato la vita, ho aggiunto una falsa cintura e aggiunto qualche elemento decorativo preso in prestito dal jeans classico.


Pauline Alice Dungarees


        Mi piace tantissimo … è immediatamente diventata il mio capo preferito da indossare velocemente. Gran bel lavoro da parte di Pauline Alice! Parlando di Pauline sono molto contenta ad annunciare che la accompagnerò alla Fiera Abilmente di Vicenza!!! Troverete più dettagli sul argomento nel articolo dedicato che pubblicherò questa domenica assieme ad un giveaway!
        Nel frattempo se cercate inspirazione per la vostra salopette Turia potete leggere questo articolo pubblicato da Glamour Magazine.



Grazie della visita. Mi piacerebbe moltissimo sentire la vostra opinione.

64 comments:

  1. YAY for dungarees! This is definitely the most comfortable and versatile garment: the way you wear it is very chic! I planned to go to Abilmente this year as well but some sudden events made me cancel the trip :( Too bad! It would be so cool to meet you in person!

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    1. ooooh :( I would have loved meeting you also... I'm so sorry to hear you can't make it! I hope there will be soon some other occasion! I'm so glad you like my dungarees :)

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  2. E' bellissima e ti sta molto bene.
    Sabrina

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  3. wow! these are amazing!! I really love the cat print on the straps facing so cute :-)

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    1. Thank you Jennifer! The cats fabric I got from Katy&Laney as part of the Shorts-on-a-line competition prize and couldn't wait till this spring to cut into it ... it's too cute!

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  4. You did a fantastic job with your dungarees!! :) The fit and the details are great :) For me it was also hard figure out what's so cool about them, but when I look at yours I get it ;)

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    1. Thank you so much Tea ... I was afraid I would look like some giant baby in the beginning and then I decided that even if I do I don't care they are just too comfy!

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  5. Love these!!
    https://facebook.com/sassysewingbees

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    1. Thank you Tasha I'm really glad you like them!

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  7. These aren't my personal style but on you they are gorgeous! I love the slim fit - makes them so much more chic! Cute strap lining too.

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    1. There are some garments that I just prefer more slim fitting ... the last thing that I would want is to look like I've been swallowed by a wad of fabric!

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  8. All'inizio questo pattern di Pauline non mi era piaciuto molto, ma ora che ho visto la tua versione ho cambiato opinione. Ti sta davvero bene!!
    Non vedo l'ora di leggere il prossimo post, magari passo a trovarti alla Fiera di Vicenza! :-)

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    1. Grazie Tiz :) Sarebbe fantastico incontrarti a Vicenza!

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  9. woww sei sempre più brava! Molto bella e originale ^^

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  10. looking fabulous on you! and look at all those little details and how perfectly you executed them! dungarees are so not my thing, but these look so fab i wouldn't mind owning a similar pair

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    1. That's quite a compliment!!! ... Thank you mokosha :D

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  11. E hai fatto centro un'altra volta!!!bellissima linea e dettagli top!! Bravissima!!!attendo con gioia di leggere domenica il post e la fiera :)!!! A presto!!!

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    1. Grazie Niko! Non vedo l'ora di incontrarti! Un abbraccio!

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  12. You look adorable in those and they are so well made. I love the distressing... must have been tough work! I agree about surrendering the waist: it is very comfortable ;)

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    1. Thank you so much Sara! There are some garments that if they are not comfortable have no reason of existing ...

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  13. Evvvivvvaaaa il give away!!! Ma sai che a me le tasche così piacciono??!!! Danno un effetto un po'.. Push up!!! Sempre più bravissimissima!!! Kiss

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    1. PUSH-UP!!! Ha! Non ci avevo pensato !!! Grazie Simo! Kiss

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  14. Amazing! I absolutely love your Turia dungarees Sasha, they look great and you too! Love the waistband and the more fitted look on you! I can't wait to meet you at Abilmente ;-)

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    1. Thank you Pauline! Love your pattern and looking forward to meet you :-)))

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  15. While not me made, my go to outfit on the weekends is a pair of overalls. Love what you did with Pauline's pattern, especially the contrast straps!

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    1. Thank you Maddie! I would love to see a self made pair from you though ;)

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  16. Could you be any more stylish? No, don't think it's possible. These are just fantastic. I'm still never making a pair for myself (think overgrown toddler and that's how I'd look), but these are seriously the coolest.

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    1. You are too kind Jillian! I must admit I would have NEVER bought a pair but since I'm sewing for the pleasure of it I thought I should sometimes try the "not my cup of tea", the quirky, the over-the-top, the unexpected ...and dungarees were definitely "not my cup of tea" !!!

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  17. Wow!! Bellissima! Sei davvero bravissima, complimenti! Ti sta benissimo! :) A presto. Martina

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    1. Grazie mille Martina! A presto :)

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  18. You are stunning in this new dungarees! Beautiful job!

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  19. This is completely darling....now I want to make this....part of me wants to make a set in a faux leather. What do you think?

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    1. Leather dungarees are such a strong look ... lots of bad girls wore them from Cher to Miley Cyrus! The question is are you a bad girl ;-) ?

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  20. These highlight your figure, great job!! love the lining behind the braces ;)

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    1. Thank you ... the lining fabric was just too fun to not use ... besides I liked the idea dungarees + cats!

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  21. These are AMAZING! Seriously, every version I've seen from this pattern has been super great, and yours probably takes the cake so far! All the little changes are great, especially the crossed belt loops in back, and that distressing is just right. I'll admit I had never heard of them being called dungarees before this pattern came out (jeans in general can be referred to as dungarees in the US) but I like it. :)

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    1. Thank you Emily! I'm so glad you like them! I think dungaree comes from sanskrit and it's a coarse indian calico which then became in the US denim and jeans. It's the brits that call dungarees the trousers+bib+straps combo

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  22. wow! this are awesome! Now I want to make some!

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    1. Thank you Mary and if you do, post pictures ;) !

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  23. perfect perfect and perfect. Alice is the luckiest girl I have to say!

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    1. Thank you Ada! I'm so excited to meet Pauline!

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  24. They look fantastic on you! Beautiful fit and finishing :) Thank you for the tip re the Craftsy class too - I'm planning to attempt jeans soon and that sounds like the perfect reference. Here's hoping my my attempt can look as professional as yours!

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    1. Thank you Danielle! I was very pleased with the class, helped me a lot!

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  25. bella bella bella!

    Vanessa Van
    http://vanessavanhandmade.blogspot.it

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  26. I am totally down with overalls! And I love the way you've styled them :) So grateful to have just found your blog! x

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    1. Thank You Reana! Just visited you blog and I LOVE it!

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  27. Featured on Sassy Sewing Bees as previously agreed https:///sassysewingbees ❀

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  28. I just discovered your blog thanks to Aime comme Marie and her post concerning Abilmente. Waouh ! Your dungarees are just amazing ! Perfect fit and style ! I just have to read your whole blog now...

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    1. Thank You! I hope you did not find the rest of my blog disappointing ;) !

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  29. wowww, now i really need to make this!

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  30. Absolutely gorgeous! You definitely make me want to sew one too!

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    1. Thank you! It's a nice pattern I can't keep my hands off of it - I'm working on a short dressy version out of Chanel like black fabric ;)

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  31. Okay. I may have to 100% rip these off with some of my leftover Ginger denim. INCROYABLE!

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  32. Wow, these are amazing! I'm currently making the Turia pattern and I was wondering how you lowered the waist - did you make initial pattern adjustments to the front bib piece or the pants? Did you attach the mock waistband over the seam between the front bib piece and the pants pieces, or was that attached first to the pants?

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    1. Hi Rachel! Thank you! ... the mock waist band is a separate piece not attached over but inserted between the pants and the bib (the bib is lowered) ... anyway if you take a look at my instagram sasha_secondopiano a while back a published two images with the modified pattern superimposed on the original :)

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