Jan 8, 2015

Making the Perfect Button-up Shirt (1)

Making the Perfect Button-up Shirt (1)



        I love it!




        This is the Aime Comme Mythique shirt by Aime Comme Marie and I love it.




        I cut a size S and the only thing I had to modify was the width of the shoulders because… well… I have scrawny shoulders. Maybe I fitted the shoulders a tad too much but the idea was to not have lots of fabric in the armpit area ... I prefer it when wearing the shirt under one of those skinny sweaters. Oh ...btw I started making this with the idea it was a muslin. My fiancée's mother, originally bought this gingham fabric to make a tablecloth or some curtains for the kitchen - so I had no expectation of wearability. When it turned out more than wearable I made a little happy dance. Of course I have to wear it with a scarf or something because I forgot I have a scrawny neck also and I did not fit the neckline. There is something weird going on with the closure at the neck... In theory it's perfect… on the body it gaps! Maybe it's the button placement, maybe it's the too big neckline. Any ideas?




        My topstitching is all over the place: from 1/8 or less to 1/4 or more I just couldn’t decide how I like it best.




        I did not topstitch the button placket - it’s just folded and pressed. As contrast fabric I used scraps from my Carme Blouse and of course I fused the interface to the wrong pieces, cut them again, managed to make the same mistake and proceeded to convince myself that I actually like the contrast fabric on the inside of the collar stand! Btw I love the shape of the collar!






        I hand sewed the lower edge of the collar stand facing and the upper edge of the cuff facings and all the internal seams are flat-felled.

        RECAP (sort of)
        The pattern, Aime Comme Mythique, goes from size S (bust: 82cm) to a LL (bust: 100cm) and does not include seam allowance. It’s a classic button-up shirt cut with bust darts, shaping at the sides, back yoke, fold over front button placket, cuffs with tower sleeve plackets, collar and collar-stand. The instructions are only in french but pretty straight forward - my pitiful language skills, a little help from google translate and the illustrations proved to be enough :)

        For the fashion fabric version I intend to (re)add 1/4 to 3/8in to each the shoulder, fix somehow that first button problem, round the cuffs (it’s a flimsier fabric and I’m afraid it wont hold well a sharp angle) and maybe lengthen the sleeves by 3/8in.






        Since I finished sewing this shirt, just before Christmas, I’ve been wearing it a lot. For me the button-up shirt is a wardrobe staple and I’m really glad I’ve found a pattern that I simply love.



Thank you for visiting. I would love to hear your opinion.

Confezionare la camicia perfetta (1)







        Questa è la camicia Aime Comme Mythique di Aime Comme Marie e la adoro.




        Ho tagliato una misura S e l’unica cosa che ho modificato è la larghezza spalla … perché le mie spalle sono piuttosto magre. Forse ho accorciato un po troppo, ma l’idea era di ridurre il più possibile la quantità di tessuto sotto le ascelle … lo preferisco quando, sopratutto adesso che fa freddo, indosso la camicia sotto qualche maglioncino sul aderente. A proposito: ho tagliato il tessuto (un gingham che la mamma del mio fidanzato aveva acquistato tempo fa per farci delle tendine o una tovaglia) con l’idea di fare una teletta di prova perciò quando alla fine mi sono resa conto che è più che indossabile ho eseguito un piccolo balletto celebrativo. La devo indossare, è vero, con una sciarpa perché mi sono dimenticata di avere anche un collo da gallina e non ho adattato lo scollo. Anche se in teoria, la chiusura al collo è cucita in modo perfetto, quando la si indossa cede, forse per via dello scollo troppo ampio o forse devo posizionare meglio il primo bottone … boh!? Qualche idea?




        Le impunture non sono per niente coerenti … vanno da 2 a 5mm - semplicemente non sono riuscita a decidere come le preferisco.




        Il cannoncino non l’ho impuntato, è solo girato doppiamente a pressato. Come tessuto a contrasto ho usato degli avanzi di tessuto della mia Blusa Carme. Sono riuscita ad incollare la fliselina sui pezzi sbagliati, ho tagliato nuovamente i pezzi ed ho riattaccato male la fliselina a qual’ punto ho deciso che il tessuto a contrasto sul interno del solino è esattamente quello che volevo!






        Ho cucito a mano il lato inferiore della paramontura del solino e il lato superiore delle paramonture dei polsini.

        RECAP (una sorta)
        Il cartamodello, Aime Comme Mythique, va dalla misura S (circ. seno: 82cm) to a LL (circ.seno: 100cm) e non include margini di cucitura. E’ una camicia classica button-up con carré, riprese sul seno, modellata in vita, con cannoncino, fessini, polsini e colletto con solino separato. Le spiegazioni sono in francese ma sono piuttosto facili da capire, le mie patetiche conoscenze, google translate e le illustrazioni sono state più che sufficienti.

        Per la versione in tessuto moda intendo (re)aggiungere 0,5-1cm alla spalla, risolvere in qualche modo il problema del primo bottone, arrotondare i polsini e forse allungare le maniche di ca. 1cm.






        Da quando ho finito di cucire questa camicia, giusto prima di Natale, l’ho indossata tantissimo. Per me la camicia button-up è un pezzo essenziale della guardaroba e sono veramente contenta di aver trovato quello che sembra il cartamodello perfetto per me.



Grazie della visita. Mi piacerebbe moltissimo sentire la vostra opinione.

52 comments:

  1. Mi piace un sacco! Hai oro nelle mani Sasha!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Grazie Marine ... penso tu abbia indovinato che tessuto moda intendo usare per la versione "buona" ;)!

      Delete
  2. this looks perfectly crisp! very lovely

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you juebejue! ... you are such an experienced sewer so it means a lot!

      Delete
  3. love that classic shirt look and contrast details you added :) the pattern is very similar to the one I used from Burda.. one of mine UFOs.. maybe this inspires me to finish it ;)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Tea!... I hope you do cause I would love to see it!

      Delete
  4. You look good in shirts and this one turned out brilliantly!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Lovely. The fabric looks great made in a shirt! The only thing about making the neckline narrower is that if it is made too tight it might annoy you? I have wanted to make a shirt for a while and I think I'm going to try the archer from grainline at the beginning of the year...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I like a narrower neckline I think it looks more sharp like in a man's shirt - the tricky part it to make it comfortable too! The archer is on my shopping list also and I can't wait to see yours!

      Delete
  6. Beautiful shirt! The shape and fit looks great. Isn't it great when a muslin turns out to be wearable! This pattern is going on my wishlist!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. oh it is ... and I couldn't believe it ... it would look great on you Rebecca!

      Delete
  7. Non ne sbagli una! Un primo pezzo degno di merito e orgoglio! Bravissima!
    (collo da gallina....ROFL!!!!sei troppo forte :D!)
    Son veramente curiosa di vedere come svilupperai la "vera camicia": secondo me il tessuto di contrasto che sceglierai sarà una bomba :D! un bacione grandissimo!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. sai che pensavo di non usare tessuto a contrasto :p !!! Grazie Niko ... un abbraccio!

      Delete
  8. Bellissima complimenti! Realizzare una camicia è un'impresa ardua che hai svolto molto bene! Io per ora ho realizzato il mio primo tubino, chissà quando riuscirò a fare una camicia =)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Grazie Sara .... corro a vedere il tuo tubino!

      Delete
  9. WOW, a me sembra perfetta!!! Davvero complimenti! Se questo è il capo di prova, non vedo l'ora di vedere la versione "moda"!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Grazie ... spero non ne resterai delusa!!! .... un bacione :*

      Delete
  10. A me sembra finita proprio per benino!! Ok le impunture sono di misure diverse ma sfido a trovare chi si metterà a guardarle da vicino.. Chissà che meraviglia sarà la prossima camicia con le opportune modifiche. Sono troppo curiosa! ;) buon lavoro!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. .... grazie Lucia ... speriamo bene ... adesso dopo tutto sto tamtam speriamo non faccio un flop ;)

      Delete
  11. Oh it looks perfection! The fabric choice is divine and the cut & fit is so classic. I like a nice button up too and this is very inspiring! I can see why you are wearing it so much ....

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ... thank you Winnie! it was one of those rare instances when everything works out ...

      Delete
  12. This is so beautiful! I've been eyeing this pattern but wasn't sure I needed it since I've already made a couple of different buttondowns (Grainline Archer, Papercut Patterns Meissa). Now I really want to try it! It's lovely!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I remember your plaid Archer - amazing (btw the Archer is already in my shopping basket! ) - and if you decide to give a try to the Mythique I know you will come up with a "hide it cause I'm gonna steal it" version!

      Delete
  13. Suuuper sharp! I like the contrasting undercollar and stand. The fit looks great - I can only dream of a buttoned shirt fitting me this well!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Morgan ... you have amazing broad shoulders - maybe this could be it!

      Delete
  14. Sasha this is sooo nice!! It's the most professional Aime comme Mythique shirt I have seen so far!! I actually just finished what I call my "perfect button up" and I'm waiting for it to come back from the wash to take pictures and blog it. I will get to it this week-end. BTW have you seen the new Sewaholic pattern ? Looks similar but with a fitted back...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I took the pictures without even washing it ... (see the marking pen on the sleeve placket) - insert chuckle here! When I finished it I was ... f(...) it fits lets take the pictures NOW! I just saw the Granville - looks so nice I can't wait to see yours!!!

      Delete
  15. How right you are...it is the perfect shirt!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. OH Thank you so much Gail!... from such an experienced seamstress means a lot!

      Delete
  16. I agree it is indeed the perfect shirt!! It looks so crisp, clean, and your sewing techniques is flawless.

    xoxo
    Paulette

    http://lollipopcoutures.blogspot.com/

    ReplyDelete
  17. It looks so good! A classic shirt but with feminine lines. I've never tried any Aime comme Marie patterns but I've been curious about them. Aside from the fact that you feel you took too much fabric out of the shoulders, do you think they are well drafted? I really like the contrast collar stand, even if it as a mistake. It gives the shirt a really crisp touch.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Sara! This is my first Aime Comme Marie pattern and from as much as I could observe working with this shirt pattern I can tell that although she drafts by hand the pieces walk perfectly and the notches match so yeah I think she has very very good patternmaking skills - you must also consider that she declares a body height of 165 and I am taller and did not have to lengthen anything :)

      Delete
  18. That may well be the most perfect muslin I've ever come across! Your finishing is immaculate, wow! I love the placement of the contrast collar stand and under collar - it looks completely intentional :) I've been on the lookout for a really good button down shirt pattern, and this looks great. Just wondering (since my French is pretty much limited to 'oui' and 'croissant'), are the illustrations helpful for the sleeve plackets? I've tried and failed at these before, and would love to master them!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Danielle! The sleeve placket it's drafted as a two piece pattern composed by the placket ( parement) and the banding (sous-pate) These two pieces include seam allowances and sewing lines and a total of nine very clear illustrations (hand-drawings) you should not have problems!

      Delete
  19. It's so lovely. From the photos the collar looks great. I've got a couple of her patterns, I wish more people made them up (at least in a language I can read!). It's such a cute pattern. Look forward to version 2! Xx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh Thank you Sarah! ... I remember your Aime comme Minute top. - both versions were lovely! too bad she doesn't do english. Lots of people would really enjoy them.

      Delete
  20. Non vorrei essere ripetitiva nei miei commenti, ma brava!!! È molto bella e ti sta davvero bene! Se non l'avessi detto, non avrei mai pensato che fosse una prova. Avevo addocchiato questo modello di Marie, ma non ne ero convinta al 100%, ma ora che ho visto la tua versione, è entrato nella mia wishlist! ;)
    E sei stata così brava da far combaciare i quadratini della stoffa, sei il mio idolo! E sono sicura che il difetto non dipenda dal tuo collo, ma dal semplice posizionamento dei bottoni. XO

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Guarda che non mi dispiace se sei ripetitiva ;)! la Mythique ti piacerebbe sicuramente! I quadratini sono combaciati da soli - non è stata colpa mia! xo

      Delete
  21. This looks like a perfect fit to me! And that collar? Swoon. How did you get it so perfect? Those collar stands are my downfall, I always have little fraying bits sticking out. Looking forward to your next version!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Jillian! on the collar I used internally a very small stitch and then notched and trimmed the curves but not the angles ... those I usually just fold.

      Delete
  22. Great shirt! It looks impeccably made. I'm trying to decide on a shirt pattern for myself and now this one is a contender.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Margo! with your skills I bet it would be perfect!

      Delete
  23. Your shirt is beautifully made. I love the checks.

    ReplyDelete
  24. Love the shirt! And the contrast collar is such an original touch! I wish my toiles were so pretty ;-)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Pauline! ... I too wish all my toiles were like this ... unfortunately happens very rarely (another example would be the Carme toile that I'm still wearing :). )

      Delete
  25. Maybe this will help with the collar? http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-481-what’s-wrong-with-this-collar-pt2/ I love gingham! And this shirt looks cute on you! There seems to be some folds right above your bust going from the armsyce outward? Maybe the bust is too high or ? I am not sure but it seems like something could be going on there.Of course, sometimes pictures don't tell the whole story. Hope you don't mind me saying.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Mary! ... Thank you for the link ... very very useful! About the drag lines starting form the apex and ending at the armscye - they are most probably caused by the overfitting at the shoulders and not the bust dart placement (a line drawn through the bust dart hits precisely the apex). I find fitting on myself the most challenging part of this sewing business - while fitting and draping on somebody else or a dress form you can pin happily away and then take a step back and check the entire thing ... fitting by yourself on yourself involves lots of guesswork (at least in the beginning). I know that with every garment I make I learn something new about my body and about how to fix problems. I include below an image of a Philip Lim shirt that has the same kind of "problems". I actually own this shirt and others that fit just like this -same drag lines - and I realise that until I started sewing and watching out for drag lines and stuff I considered a fit like this to be good, normal. What do you think? Where do we need to drag the lines between bad fit, reasonable fitting expectations and obsessive-compulsiveness?
      [img]http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0DH_xDUI7LU/VLvY9p68c8I/AAAAAAAACeA/jUFeAhtxksQ/s1600/51283F112008_1%2B(1).jpg[/img]

      Delete
    2. I know exactly what you mean about where do we draw the line? I for sure am no fitting expert. And I totally agree about trying to fit yourself. I myself will settle for maybe a little big sometimes as I am a nut about being comfortable in my clothes, fussy clothes are just so not my thing. So maybe perhaps people may think I don't fit enough. I am in the process of trying to dial in the fit on a button up as well. I am slowly getting there hopefully, One of the things that I have just realized is that a lot of my shirts have draglines that start in my mid-ish shoulder and go diagonally to about the 2nd button-apparently caused by having square shoulders. So know that I have noticed it , I can't unsee it lol!!!Mostly, I am satisfied when my clothes aren't making me uncomfortable and are flattering enough, Of course it just depends on what it is, as I have been known to sport a "sack dress" now and then.

      Delete

Google+